Пуловер, связанный резинкой

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Источник: Burda Вязание 2022-01
Дизайнер: Novita
Вам потребуется: Novita 7 Veljestä Solids (75% шерсти, 25% полиэстера, 100 г/ 200 м)

Проект на Ravelry: X





Пуловер из сабрины

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Источник: Sabrina 2022-01
Вам потребуется: Cashmere Moda from Lana Grossa (65% Merino, 25% Cashmere goat, 10% Polyester, 90 meters / 25 grams) — 525 (550 г), спицы 4.5 и 5.5

Проект на Ravelry: X



патентная английская резинка

Пуловер со снежинкой / Snowflake jumper

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Источник: Simply Knitting 217
Дизайнер: Jo Allport (2021)
Вам потребуется: пряжа Scheepjes Stone Washed (78% Cotton, 22% Acrylic, 130 meters / 50 grams) — 11-18 мотков красного и 1 моток белого цвета, спицы 3.25 mm и 3.5 mm

Проект на Ravelry: Snowflake jumper





Планка высотой 5 см связана узором рис на спицах 3.25. Основное полотно спицами 3.5.
По бокам разрезы высотой 15 см, оформлены тоже узором рис, шириной 6 п с каждой стороны
Воротник высотой 12 см, сложен вдвое и пришит внутри.

Пуловер Drops 228-6 Diamond Fire

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Источник: Drops 228 (2021)
Вам потребуется: Garnstudio DROPS Alpaca (100% Alpaca, 167 meters / 50 grams) — 350-400-450-500-550-600 г на размеры S — M — L — XL — XXL — XXXL
или DROPS BabyMerino (100% мериносовая шерсть, 175 м / 50 г) — 350-400-450-450-500-550 г.
Круговые спицы 2.5 мм и основные спицы 3.0 мм.

Плотность 24 stitches and 32 rows = 10 cm лицевой гладью

Проект на Ravelry: 228-6 Diamond Fire

Изделие вяжется по кругу сверху вниз, от правого плеча, с седловидными плечами, разрезом по бокам.
Кокетка разделяется на тело и рукава.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.4. Choose diagram for your size (applies to A.1).

INCREASE TIP-1 (evenly spaced):
To work out how to increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 120 stitches) and divide by the number of increases to be made (e.g. 26) = 4.6. 
In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after alternately each 4th and 5th stitch. On the next round/row work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

INCREASE TIP-2:
AFTER MARKER:
The new stitch twists to the left.
Use the left needle to pick up the strand between 2 stitches from the previous round, pick up the front strand and knit in the back loop.
BEFORE MARKER:
The new stitch twists to the right.
Use the left needle to pick up the strand between 2 stitches from the previous round, pick up the back strand and knit in the front loop.

DECREASE TIP (for sleeves): 
Decrease 1 stitch on either side of the marker thread as follows: Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker thread sits between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (2 stitches decreased).

CASTING-OFF TIP:
To avoid the cast-off edge being tight you can cast off with a larger size needle. If the edge is still tight, make 1 yarn over after approx. each 6th stitch at the same time as casting off; the yarn overs are cast off as normal stitches.

Описание работы

DOUBLE NECK:
Loosely cast on 120-124-130-134-138-146 stitches with short circular needle size 3 mm and DROPS Alpaca or DROPS Baby Merino. Knit 1 round. Change to short circular needle size 2.5 mm and work rib in the round (knit 1 twisted, purl 1) for 9 cm.
When the rib is finished, knit 1 round where you increase 26-26-24-24-24-20 stitches evenly spaced – read INCREASE TIP-1 = 146-150-154-158-162-166 stitches.

YOKE:
Change to circular needle size 3 mm.
Insert 4 markers as follows, without working the stitches and inserted between 2 stitches. These markers are used when increasing for the shoulders.

Marker 1: Insert the marker in the beginning of the round, before the first stitch (= transition between back piece and right sleeve). All following rounds start by this marker.
Marker 2: Count 30-30-30-34-34-34 stitches from marker 1 (= shoulder), insert the marker before the next stitch.
Marker 3: Count 43-45-47-45-47-49 stitches from marker 2 (= front piece), insert the marker before the next stitch.
Marker 4: Count 30-30-30-34-34-34 stitches from marker 3 (= shoulder), insert the marker before the next stitch.
There are 43-45-47-45-47-49 stitches left on the back piece after marker 4.
Allow these markers to follow your work onwards; they are used when increasing for the shoulders.

INCREASES TO SADDLE SHOULDERS:
You will now work pattern at the same time as increasing for the saddle shoulders. Read the whole section before continuing! REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
FIRST ROUND:
Work A.1 as far as marker 2 (= 30-30-30-34-34-34 stitches), increase AFTER marker 2– read INCREASE TIP-2, work stocking stitch as far as marker 3, increase BEFORE marker 3, work A.1 as far as marker 4 (= 30-30-30-34-34-34 stitches), increase AFTER marker 4, work stocking stitch as far as marker 1, increase BEFORE marker 1.
4 stitches have been increased for the shoulders – the increases are on the front and back pieces; the number of shoulder stitches remains the same. The increased stitches are worked in stocking stitch.
Continue the pattern and increase like this every round a total of 24-26-28-32-34-36 times = 242-254-266-286-298-310 stitches. There are 91-97-103-109-115-121 stitches on the front and back pieces and 30-30-30-34-34-34 stitches on each shoulder.
The piece measures approx. 8-8-9-10-11-11 cm from the marker on the neck.

INCREASES TO SLEEVES:
Move each marker so they sit between 2 stitches shown by the arrows in A.1 (= 2 markers on each shoulder).
In addition, insert a marker thread at the beginning of the round; marks the beginning of the round since marker 1 has been moved.
FIRST ROUND:
Work A.2 (= 8 stitches – A.2 continues over the cable in A.1), increase AFTER marker 1, work stocking stitch as far as marker 2, increase BEFORE marker 2, work A.3 (= 8 stitches – A.3 continues over the cable in A.1), work 1-4-1-4-1-4 stitches in stocking stitch, A.4A (= 9 stitches), work A.4B over the next 72-72-84-84-96-96 stitches (= 6-6-7-7-8-8 repeats of 12 stitches), work A.4C (= 8 stitches), work 1-4-1-4-1-4 stitches in stocking stitch, work A.2 (= 8 stitches – A.2 continues over the cable in A.1), increase AFTER marker 3, work stocking stitch as far as marker 4, increase BEFORE marker 4, work A.3 (= 8 stitches – A.3 continues over the cable in A.1), work 1-4-1-4-1-4 stitches in stocking stitch, A.4A (= 9 stitches), A.4B over the next 72-72-84-84-96-96 stitches (= 6-6-7-7-8-8 repeats of 12 stitches), A.4C (= 8 stitches) and work 1-4-1-4-1-4 stitches in stocking stitch.
You have increased 4 stitches for the sleeves; the number of stitches on the front and back pieces remains the same. The increased stitches are worked in stocking stitch.
Continue the pattern and increase like this every round a total of 9-8-9-6-11-6 times = 278-286-302-310-342-334 stitches.
The piece measures approx 10-11-12-12-14-13 cm from the marker on the neck.

INCREASES TO YOKE:
Move the 4 markers so they sit in the middle of each A.2 and A.3.
On the next round increase 8 stitches as before, but just before and just after each A.2 and A.3 (increase 1 stitch when 4 stitches remain before each marker and increase 1 stitch 4 stitches after each marker).
You are now increasing on the front and back pieces as well as the sleeves; the increased stitches are worked in stocking stitch.
Increase like this every 2nd round a total of 9-12-14-18-18-23 times = 350-382-414-454-486-518 stitches.
When all the increases are finished, the piece measures approx. 16-18-20-23-25-28 cm from the neck.
Continue working without further increases until the piece measures 20-22-24-25-27-29 cm for the neck – AT THE SAME TIME, on the last round decrease 8 stitches on the round by decreasing 2 stitches in each A.2/A.3 (knit together the 4 stitches in the cable 2 and 2) = 342-374-406-446-478-510 stitches.
Divide for the body and sleeves on the next round as follows: Start 3-4-5-6-3-5 stitches before A.2 at the beginning of the round, place the next 68-74-82-90-94-98 stitches on a thread for the sleeve, cast on 8-8-10-10-12-12 stitches (= in side under sleeve), work as before over the next 103-113-121-133-145-157 stitches (= front piece), place the next 68-74-82-90-94-98 stitches on a thread for the sleeve, cast on 8-8-10-10-12-12 stitches (= in side under sleeve) and work the last 103-113-121-133-145-157 stitches as before (= back piece). The body and sleeves are finished separately. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 222-242-262-286-314-338 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the 8-8-10-10-12-12 new stitches cast on under each sleeve = 111-121-131-143-157-169 stitches between the threads. Allow the marker threads to follow your work onwards – they will later mark the split in each side.
Work the first round as follows: 11-16-15-21-22-28 stitches in stocking stitch, continue A.4 over the next 89-89-101-101-113-113 stitches, 22-32-30-42-44-56 stitches in stocking stitch (marker thread sits in the middle of these stitches), continue A.4 over the next 89-89-101-101-113-113 stitches, 11-16-15-21-22-28 stitches in stocking stitch.
Continue this pattern in the round until A.4 has been worked 4-4-4-4-4-5 times in height, then work the first round in A.4. The piece measures approx. 33-33-34-35-36-42 cm from after the neck.
Continue with stocking stitch over all stitches until the piece measures 19 cm from the division. There is 10 cm left to finished length; try the jumper on and work to desired length.
Now divide the piece for the split in each side. Keep the first 111-121-131-143-157-169 stitches on the needle (= front piece). Place the other stitches on a thread or extra needle.

FRONT PIECE:
= 111-121-131-143-157-169 stitches.
To avoid the following rib being tight, knit 1 row from the wrong side where you increase 34-36-40-42-48-50 stitches evenly spaced – remember INCREASE TIP = 145-157-171-185-205-219 stitches.
Change to circular needle size 2.5 mm and work rib as follows:
ROW 1 (wrong side): 3 edge stitches in GARTER STITCH – read description above, * purl 1 twisted, knit 1 *, work from *-* until there are 4 stitches left, purl 1 twisted and 3 edge stitches in garter stitch.
ROW 2 (right side): 3 edge stitches in garter stitch, * knit 1 twisted, purl 1 *, work from *-* until there are 4 stitches left, knit 1 twisted and 3 edge stitches in garter stitch.
Repeat rows 1 and 2 until the rib measures 10 cm. Cast off from the right side with garter stitch over garter stitch, knit over knit and purl over purl – read CASTING-OFF TIP!
The jumper measures approx. 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm from the shoulder down.

BACK PIECE:
Place the 111-121-131-143-157-169 stitches from the thread/extra needle back on circular needle size 3 mm. Knit 1 row from the right side where you increase 34-36-40-42-48-50 stitches evenly spaced = 145-157-171-185-205-219 stitches.
Change to circular needle size 2.5 mm and work rib as follows:
ROW 1 (wrong side): 3 edge stitches in garter stitch, * purl 1 twisted, knit 1 *, work from *-* until there are 4 stitches left, purl 1 twisted and 3 edge stitches in garter stitch.
ROW 2 (right side): 3 edge stitches in garter stitch, * knit 1 twisted, purl 1 *, work from *-* until there are 4 stitches left, knit 1 twisted and 3 edge stitches in garter stitch.
Repeat rows 1 and 2 until the rib measures 10 cm. Cast off from the right side with garter stitch over garter stitch, knit over knit and purl over purl – remember CASTING-OFF TIP!

SLEEVES:
Place the 68-74-82-90-94-98 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on double pointed needles/short circular needle size 3 mm and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 8-8-10-10-12-12 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 76-82-92-100-106-110 stitches. Insert a marker thread in the middle of the new stitches under the sleeve. Allow the thread to follow your work onwards; it will be used when decreasing under the sleeve.
Start at the marker thread and work stocking stitch in the round.
When the piece measures 2 cm from the division, decrease 2 stitches under the sleeve – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 1½ cm a total of 3-5-8-12-15-18 times, then every 4th round 4-4-4-3-2-0 times = 62-64-68-70-72-74 stitches.
Continue working until the sleeve measures 36-34-33-33-32-30 cm from the division. There is 8 cm left to finished length; try the jumper on and work to desired length.
Change to double pointed needles size 2.5 mm and work rib (knit 1 twisted, purl 1) for 8 cm. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl – remember CASTING-OFF TIP!
The sleeve measures approx. 44-42-41-41-40-38 cm from the division. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Fold the neck double to the inside and sew down. To avoid the neck being tight and rolling outwards, it is important that the seam is elastic.





Пуловер с растительным узором

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Источник: Verena 1994-02

https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/sources/verena-stricken-1994-februar


См. также Пуловер из журнала Filati Lino 1

Пуловер оливкового цвета

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Источник: Sabrina 05/2015
Вам потребуется: Eco Baby by Debbie Bliss (100% Cotton, 124 meters / 50 grams), спицы 3.5 mm

Проект на Ravelry: # 30 Pull vert olive en motif à trous

22 stitches and 26 rows = 10 cm

Короткий графичный топ

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Источник: Sabrina 2014-05

Проект на Ravelry: # 14 Pulli in vier Farben

интарсия
20 stitches and 31 rows = 10 cm in eyelet patern
Пряжа 97% Cotton, 3% Polyester, 125 meters / 50 grams

Пуловер в сиреневых тонах с белой кокеткой

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Источник: Sabrina 2004-05
Вам потребуется: 1070 — 1350 м пряжи (травка 91 meters / 50 grams, акрил 140 meters / 50 grams), спицы 4 мм


20 stitches and 29 rows = 10 cm — лицевая гладь
рукав три четверти


Зеленый пуловер с интарсией

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Источник: Sabrina 2012-06
Вам потребуется: пряжа Kappa by Lang Yarns (97% Cotton, 3% Polyester,125 meters / 50 grams), спицы 4.0 mm





Пуловер с круглой кокеткой Yoked от Norah Gaughan

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Источник: Vogue Knitting, Early Fall 2018
Дизайнер: Norah Gaughan

Проект на Ravelry: Yoked pullover


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